Environmental Specialists in the desert - 1, Days in the desert - 10, Beers consumed in the desert - 3, Kebabs consumed in the desert - 9, fruit juices in the desert - 7, Fish Traps surveyed - lost Count ...
Well, it has all been go go go the past couple of days as we kicked off with some quite hardcore intertdial archaeology with a fair bit of geoarch so boy, am I happy! After our recce on Sunday, we decided that the fish traps, for a number of good reasons including socio-economic, cultural and demographical as well as archaeological, could prove an extremely interesting set of features to focus our attention on. There are quite literally hundreds of these things across the foreshore of Qatar, they have not been dated and by and large (although there are exceptions), they have fallen into disuse. They vary considerably morphologically and the have been constructed in an extremely methodical manner. The aggregate is limestone which appears to have collected from the beaches and not quarried.
What we decided to do, in brief, was attempt to define the stratigraphy within the traps and at the periphery, and the method of constructionl, we also hoped to define the geophysical signature using magnetometry. We are hoping to find buried ones in the Sabkha (saltmarsh) as there are a number of former estuaries along te west coast. This would be followed by a systematic survey of the fish traps in a given stretch of coast to further support the evidence from the two fish traps we planned to excavate and plan.
Due to the tides, we have not managed to complete this venture at this time. Paul was keen to press on but the tidal frame thwarted our best efforts, it is possibly the worst time to be out there. The tidal regime here is quite peculiar, the fisrt low tide is lower than the following one, ie it is asymmetric which means the area uncovered by the first tide is greater than that by the second but the same tide the following day drops again. We have managed to open two trenches, one to establish the internal stratigraphy, the second to determine the stratigraphy associated with the wall itself. The first is closed, work on the second requires completion. We have done some Geophys and also started the survey. Today, the tide is so restrictive, it isn't worth going out and we are doing PX on what we have already. We have also been working split shifts, 05.30-10.30 then 12.00-17.00 on Tuesday, and 05.00-09.30 then 13.00-17.00 yesterday, it is really, really tiring. We obviously have quite a long break, I managed to sleep yesterday but not today.
Next week, we aim to finish the fish traps off. I also have to go down to Doha to finish some environmental samples off and we have a few further sites up here to start looking at, several associated with the Palaeolithic site.
On a personal level, the last few days have been interesting. We go down to the guys digging at the fort in Zubara occassionally and have a chat with them, we are off to their end of excavation party tonight, hopefully the Craic will be mighty! We also have a minor trauma with the tyres on one of the vehicles which made for a REALLY long day on Monday.
Food wise, it is not good up here, there is the Hinese which I think I have already mentioned which is a rank blend of Chinese and Indian, they reckon Arabic as well but I am at a loss to see the Arabic influence. I had the first decent meal I have had from there last night, a mutton shawarma (mutton kebab) which I shared with James our Cameraman and some veggie rice, this was OK. We eat in most nights, the fish from the fish market is excellent, however my current favourite 'hamour' or Tawina Grouper is currently as overfished as cod which is closely resembles.
We are currently waiting for the bloody cleaners to finish cleaning Team Llanbedd's flat's ... Procrastinantion on previously unseen levels currently appears to be occurring. We should be out of here soon, hopefully, bukra Inshallah. I am currently attempting to learning arabic, my favourite phrase is mish mishkallah
- 1st to guess what that means gets a fruit juice.
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Sunday, 21 March 2010
Wadi Bashing, Bedouin Feast, Jamelia Camel and other stories
Environmental Specialists in the desert - 1, Days in the desert - 6, Beers consumed in the desert - 3, Kebabs consumed in the desert - 7, fruit juices in the desert - 5, Dead camels in the desert 1
Hello! Hope you are all well, been of the grid for a couple of days, largely because things have got a bit exciting...
Well, had a quiet weekend, carried on catching up with Daniel and familiarising myself with driving in Qatar. Dan was a great help, we drove down to one of the deserted villages and then on to the site where Dan was working last year. We then went down to the fort at Zubara where a further estuary chum, Gareth Rees, had been working. Sadly just missed him, he travelled back to Doha they day I travelled up. some interesting people, had a funny turn (I think it was a heat related thing) and got invited to a party. Top!
Even better, was the desert barbecue hosted by Faisal that evening in the desert, drove across the desert in the dark, which was epic and was treated to a genuine Bedouin feast under the stars and with a bonfire... Quite Lawrence of Arabia-esque. If anyone would have told me on the 19th March 1990 I would be doing this on the same date 20 years later, I would have probably said something quite rude. You truly never know what life will throw at you.
I also won £20 at Cheltenham on Imperial Commander...
Sunday, Paul and I went forth to look at fish traps and explore my great archaeological and geographical love, the intertidal zone. We had an entertaining afternoon rounded off by a non alcoholic beer, these things are quite I then went off for dinner with Team Llanbedd (the University of Wales, Lampeter Crew), they are a very entertaining and friendly bunch, came home and did some more brainstorming with Paul and Oskar.
Today, Alison and I went to have a look at prospective sites for both Paul and I. I We have found a Wadi I am interested in, this is associated with a previous find of relatively deep peat, possibly intertidal, and a Palaeolithic flint scatter. I would like to do some serious coring across the Wadi, to test the theory that between 28000 and 8000 years ago, the Arabian Gulf was a refugia. If we could just find some really deep organic rich sediment or intertidal deposits, I reckon we could have a really good project. I would be an interesting mini-project just to establish the stratigraphy and see what it bottoms out onto/into. Went round and had a look at some fish traps and I also went up to the Copenhagen site at Old Zubara and saw the most amazing midden. We also had a bit of an unexpected find in the form of Jamelia the Camel. Alison and I were off, heading towards the coast for further fish trap fun when I spotted a scatter of bones which turned out to be a dead camel. I think it is a she and she was certainly 15+ years old, obviously without comparative material, I cannot make any firm assumptions.
I have also had great fun off roading, it is mentally challenging but good fun, I have a great vehicle, a Nissan X-Terra, I don't think we have them in the UK, largely due to the 4 litre engine, mind you, unleaded here is only 14p a litre... It only costs £10 to fill the damn thing up...
The Craic is currently mighty, more work on fish traps tomorrow and I really hope I am becoming aclimatised. I have felt really quite ill in the afternoon the past couple of days but felt much better this evening. You just have to make sure you eat properly and drink plenty of water. I have lost loads of weight and not had a drink for 5 days, it would be nice to have a beer of glass of cold Sauvignon Blanc when you finish but believe it or not, I don't crave it.
Friday, 19 March 2010
Baby Camels, Daniel and Al Ruwais
Environmental Specialists in the desert - 1, Days in the desert - 3, Beers consumed in the desert - 3, Kebabs consumed in the desert - 5, fruit juices in the desert - 1.
I was a wee bit knackered last night and didn't write my blog! Travelled up north and went shopping in Carrefour, was staggered, you could Reblachon and bloomin' President Butter, not that I will be making much tarteflette in Qatar...
Was a very interesting drive up, desert is something else, we did a bit of off road to find the rest of the crew and in the process found a two day old baby camel and its Mammy. Just as we pitched up they 'camel drover' for want of a better phrase appeared and gave the mother camel an post-natal check up. I have to say, he was very kind to it and, despite the camels attempts at biting and kicking he was very gentle with it. His donkey was also beautifully groomed and maintained, lets face it, you can always tell how well a donkey is looked after by its hooves, these were beautifully manicured. Once he had been hobbled, he grazed away merrily on the spinifex. I am well impressed by and large by the attitude towards their animals. They have falcons as well which they really, really love. One fellow I have come across lost his recently (it died) and he is very, very upset.
Anyway, met the new posse and have evolved a really interesting pump-priming project with Paul Breeze, was really good to see him. It is intertidal so I am very excited!!!
Anyway to young Mr. Jones, cannot believe I haven't seen him for the better part of two years, we are catching up at the mo whilst watching 'Borat'. The craic will be mighty. Going to have a little drive in a bit to have a go with the automatics and on the wrong side of the road! Don't think we plan to do much today, have a wonder around Al Ruwais and stuff - just chill out a bit! We are having a desert barbecue tonight, so hopefully the Craic will be mighty.
Starting to struggle a bit, re-alcohol. I can't say I crave it but I frankly miss having a beer. Have discovered the Juice Bar, which is great - Dan and I had a Guava and Mango respectively - they were really lush for £1 each! I think the detox will do me good and I don't aim to resort to the no alcohol stuff. Lets try and do without it. My liver is probably partying at this moment...
Anyhow the Muzzein has just started, despite all the air conditioning and western trappings etc. it does remind you where you are.
Wednesday, 17 March 2010
A spanner in the works...
Environmental Specialists in the desert - 1, Days in the desert - 2, Beers consumed in the desert - 3 (sigh, St. Patricks Day as well...), Kebabs consumed in the desert - 2, free spanners in the desert - 0.
Had an interesting day today, sort of did some work, felt massively jetlagged tho' until lunchtime and then felt a bit better. Feeling happily tired at the mo and hoping for a good nights sleep. Went into the Dept. of Antiquiries and had a look at the GIS etc. Then we went to get some kit and had great fun, stopped off at a Turkish fast food place and had the most amazing kofta kebab and chicken kebab, yum, yum, yum, yum. Had a nice felafal as well, first time I have actually enjoyed one. We then headed to the Tool Store to kit ourselves out and get some paraffin, couldn't get any of the latter but caused a stir again.
After this we headed to the Souk Waqif to buy spades etc. which was successful, Richard also bought a HUGE cooking pot. Aims to cook curry's in the desert, hope I'm involved... Had quite a laugh driving round with Howell and Richard today, Doha traffic is like Russian Roulette and I am slightly nervous about driving round in it. All the bloody cars appear to be automatics as well...! That being said, they 'truck' Richard has got is well swish. The highlight of today was the Indian fellow in the Tisco Toolstore trying to give Richard a 29mm wrench, it was one large wrench... Richard refused.
Anyway, tomorrow I am off up to Shamal, have missed Gareth :-( but still looking forward to seeing Mr. Jones.
I also had a horse come in 3rd at Cheltenham, I was reasonably pleased til I found out I'd only won a quid. I've got Kauto Star in the Gold Cup and Imperial Commander... We shall see.
Manana...
Had an interesting day today, sort of did some work, felt massively jetlagged tho' until lunchtime and then felt a bit better. Feeling happily tired at the mo and hoping for a good nights sleep. Went into the Dept. of Antiquiries and had a look at the GIS etc. Then we went to get some kit and had great fun, stopped off at a Turkish fast food place and had the most amazing kofta kebab and chicken kebab, yum, yum, yum, yum. Had a nice felafal as well, first time I have actually enjoyed one. We then headed to the Tool Store to kit ourselves out and get some paraffin, couldn't get any of the latter but caused a stir again.
After this we headed to the Souk Waqif to buy spades etc. which was successful, Richard also bought a HUGE cooking pot. Aims to cook curry's in the desert, hope I'm involved... Had quite a laugh driving round with Howell and Richard today, Doha traffic is like Russian Roulette and I am slightly nervous about driving round in it. All the bloody cars appear to be automatics as well...! That being said, they 'truck' Richard has got is well swish. The highlight of today was the Indian fellow in the Tisco Toolstore trying to give Richard a 29mm wrench, it was one large wrench... Richard refused.
Anyway, tomorrow I am off up to Shamal, have missed Gareth :-( but still looking forward to seeing Mr. Jones.
I also had a horse come in 3rd at Cheltenham, I was reasonably pleased til I found out I'd only won a quid. I've got Kauto Star in the Gold Cup and Imperial Commander... We shall see.
Manana...
Tuesday, 16 March 2010
Sushi in Doha
Environmental Specialists in the Desert - 1, Days in the Desert - 1, Beers consumed - 3.
Well, had a great drug-induced nights sleep, slept from 4.30am to 1.30pm (jet lag, jet lag, I know) and woke up refreshed, no strange dreams about turtles tonight... Spent the day lounging about the apartment, revelling in the heat (didn't switch the A/C on, why? This is warmer than central heating...)
Richard and Howell came back, we had a catch up and then went out to the Ramada for dinner where I had my very first plate of what I would call proper sushi, it was GORGEOUS!! The tuna, which was so pink the fish must only have passed on as the chef sank the knife in to remove my fillet, it was better than anything I have ever had in Barbados, high praise indeed! Anyway, we met these two TV company guys who are making a documentary for Qatari national day, Richard and I chatted over some ideas for coring etc. it was all pretty interesting.
Tomorrow, the real work starts in ernest, anyway, have to be up for 6.30am to head for the office at 7 to sort what kit I need out and meet a few more people. Looking forward to it, I must say.
I am supposed to be heading north tomorrow as well, although it looks as though Richard will be busy with Hugo the TV guy, so we'll see. Already suggested to Daniel that he may want to prepare the legendary juice bar for St. Patrick's Day, I'm sorry, I am partially Irish so I have to celebrate my roots!
I am happy, I have drunk beer and eaten choclate... :-D
Anyway, off to bed...
Well, had a great drug-induced nights sleep, slept from 4.30am to 1.30pm (jet lag, jet lag, I know) and woke up refreshed, no strange dreams about turtles tonight... Spent the day lounging about the apartment, revelling in the heat (didn't switch the A/C on, why? This is warmer than central heating...)
Richard and Howell came back, we had a catch up and then went out to the Ramada for dinner where I had my very first plate of what I would call proper sushi, it was GORGEOUS!! The tuna, which was so pink the fish must only have passed on as the chef sank the knife in to remove my fillet, it was better than anything I have ever had in Barbados, high praise indeed! Anyway, we met these two TV company guys who are making a documentary for Qatari national day, Richard and I chatted over some ideas for coring etc. it was all pretty interesting.
Tomorrow, the real work starts in ernest, anyway, have to be up for 6.30am to head for the office at 7 to sort what kit I need out and meet a few more people. Looking forward to it, I must say.
I am supposed to be heading north tomorrow as well, although it looks as though Richard will be busy with Hugo the TV guy, so we'll see. Already suggested to Daniel that he may want to prepare the legendary juice bar for St. Patrick's Day, I'm sorry, I am partially Irish so I have to celebrate my roots!
I am happy, I have drunk beer and eaten choclate... :-D
Anyway, off to bed...
Monday, 15 March 2010
Well, I'm here... I have also had a lovely bit of news en-route, Kate and Jon have asked me to be little Charlotte Evelyn 'Lottie' Northall's Godmother, I am absolutely stoked and very proud :-D
Had a trouble free trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow, Emirate flight into Dubai was superb, apart from breaking my seatback entertainment system and having to move. Watched 'New Moon' and 'The Hurt Locker', the latter is an absolutely incredible film, I am in love with Will 'Blaster 1' James, what a man... As for 'New Moon', why does Bella insist on fancying the insipid Edward and thinking so much of the Cullens, is she bloody daft? Jacob and the Werewolves would be much better fun, dare I suggest that the Craic may be Feckin Mighty?
Glasgow flight was however, delayed which meant I had to run from one end of Dubai Terminal 3 to the other, had not had time to reattach my belt to my trousers and they started to part company with my waist... I felt this may lead to an international incident so stopped to remedy the situation and made my connection just in time. In fact, it was a virtually identical re-run to the events at Munich on the way back from Sarajevo in 2006, jeans parting company with waist, delayed flight etc.... There were 5 Europeans on the flight and I was the only female, I would suggest that if you want to cause a bit of a stir, this is the way to proceed. I was asked if I was a Chelsea fan to which I curtly replied no, it got worse in the Visa queue where the European men started it as well, none of them were British...
Anyway, now in my temporary abode in Doha with some organic-rich samples to look at (Toppings), don't know when I'm off up to Al Ruwais (sp) to catch up with Danny Boy and do some augering but I imagine it will be soon. Transpires another mate from the Severn Estuary, Gareth Rees is out here... Will be good to see him as well. On that note, it was good to see Cuttlefish and be back with the Birmingham Crew...
Anyway, I really should go to bed... More news from the Desert a demain...
Sunday, 14 March 2010
5 minutes peace...
Well, the carnage just hasn't stopped now for three weeks, yes I know I am only having fun when I am so busy I don't know what day of the week it is but I do actually feel a little frazzled. Hence an afternoon with Nurse Jackie, The Bahrain GP and possibly Being Human or Skins is actually feeling quite good. I miss the 'Hereford Posse' loads, the office posse and the Cathedral Crew.
Had much fun with the Edinburgh Office posse on Friday evening, Ed and I then departed for Fish and Chips at the Tail End, been making sure I have had my favourite foods - Fry-Up, Roast Beef and Fish and Chips - aim to have a dirty burger at GLA tomorrow morning - or do I have a further fry up? Would it be innappropriate to have a pint or indeed, rude not to? Murrayfield was fun and it was great to catch up with Edward who buggered off home early. Likewise, it was nice to see Scott, Steve and Kirsty D last night.
So, this is my first blog, I will try and write every couple of days but I do have Season 1 and 2 of Rescue Me, The Lakes, Space: Above and Beyond, Warriors and Season 5 of The Wire to watch. Forwarned in this case really is potentially forearmed...
My bag is packed, I have checked in, just need a shower and then I'm off to Dr. Timpany's...
Had much fun with the Edinburgh Office posse on Friday evening, Ed and I then departed for Fish and Chips at the Tail End, been making sure I have had my favourite foods - Fry-Up, Roast Beef and Fish and Chips - aim to have a dirty burger at GLA tomorrow morning - or do I have a further fry up? Would it be innappropriate to have a pint or indeed, rude not to? Murrayfield was fun and it was great to catch up with Edward who buggered off home early. Likewise, it was nice to see Scott, Steve and Kirsty D last night.
So, this is my first blog, I will try and write every couple of days but I do have Season 1 and 2 of Rescue Me, The Lakes, Space: Above and Beyond, Warriors and Season 5 of The Wire to watch. Forwarned in this case really is potentially forearmed...
My bag is packed, I have checked in, just need a shower and then I'm off to Dr. Timpany's...
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